No sooner did I leave The Warrington in Maida Vale did I read in The London Paper (rest its soul) that Gordon Ramsey’s pub had failed a health inspection. Apparently they found mouse droppings in the kitchen, under the sink and in the window sills. I’m writing this review as if I didn’t know that, but be advised that mousecrap supersedes whatever tasty things I had at The Warrington…
I started out with the potted duck with apple and onion chutney.
Is there nothing better than duck with fruit? It’s like peanut butter and chocolate or steak and stilton. I wasn’t sure if the lukewarmness of this dish was intentional or not, but I found it to be a nice light start to the meal. Bread was meh.
The main was a braised lamb shank with sweet potato mash.
Lamb shank should fall off the bone and melt in your mouth. This did that, but unfortunately what fell of the bone was mostly fat. Ick. I also wish there was some sort of a vegetable served along with this. Lamb is good, sweet potatoes are excellent, but I need something to cut the salt and sweet. That said though, there were some really nice flavours out of this. The broth was really nice.
For dessert: bakewell tart.
I think I’m just not cut out for ‘pudding’ pudding. When I was little my grandma would make strawberry rhubarb pie and Christmas pudding and I just couldn’t handle it. Bakewell tart is the same. It’s just…. too much. What I thought was ice cream on the side of the extremely rich and dry tart ended up being just one huge hunk of cream. It just needed something to hydrate it, and dessert shouldn’t really be like that at all.
The Warrington was fine. If I didn’t mention it before, the building itself is absolutely gorgeous. Really, really beautiful.
Considering the whole mouse crap thing, I won’t go back to the restaurant proper, but I enjoyed my meal enough when I was there. I would definitely spend time in the pub downstairs though.
It was also nice they had a California Zin on the glass list. You don’t see that every day in England.