I’d bet a fortune that most Londoners (save for the ones that live near it) have never heard of Mosaica at the Factory. I wouldn’t blame them one bit. First off, it’s in Wood Green. Second, it’s in the middle of a dodgy looking industrial estate. Third, it’s hidden in an old factory. And finally, the sign for the restaurant is about the size of an A4 sheet of paper, and you have to weave your way down a long corridor past what looks like an office reception security guard to find it.
They don’t make it easy, but the ridiculous scavenger hunt you have to go through to get there is worth it. It’s the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow, the X marks the spot pirate booty, if you will.
I found out about Mosaica from the boy who had – earlier that week – been taken there by one of his clients who has a studio on one of the upper floors of the factory. He didn’t stop talking about it for days, so I booked in a Sunday lunch, and off we went.
The restaurant is organised chaos. It’s an open-floor plan with a small kitchen and rather large bar. There’s outdoor seating under an awning, and large comfy chairs throughout. It’s a bit dark, but cozy. The place looks like it was just thrown together, but in that painstaking ‘probably took months’ way.
I started out with the Parfait of Foie Gras with Pickles and Toast:
A healthy portion of pate, I only wished I had more of the delicious toast to spread it on. It was rather rich, but the saltiness of the capers brought it back down to earth.
The other starter was a Goat’s Cheese Salad with Balsamic Glaze:
Warm creamy goat’s cheese over fresh leaves topped with a bit of pesto, if I remember correctly. Although it’s not exactly rocket science to put together a dish like this, it was a lovely summer salad.
I went with the BBQ Ribs and Chips for my main. I had absolutely no idea what I was getting myself into. I mean, Christ, LOOK AT IT! It was at least 7 inches tall.
The three racks of ribs were oddly inconsistent. While the top portion was dry and tough, the stack descended into what ribs should be: slightly sweet, slightly spicey very messy sauce over tender meat that falls off the bone. Serving them on a bed of chips was a mistake though. Anything resembling a crisp fried potato shard was completely destroyed by the weight of the glittering tower of meat.
The boy went with the Roast Chicken:
A fine specimen, but nothing particularly noteworthy. It was a good roast, but that’s it.
We left happy, far too stuffed for dessert.
For Wood Green, Mosaica is exorbinantly expensive (with wine, food and service the bill was about £70), but if you plopped it in the middle of Soho, it would be a steal – especially with the amount of food you get. In any case, if you fancy a bit of adventure and a trip up north, check it out. Just make sure you take a map. And, if you have a TasteLondon card, you get 50% off your first visit, which makes it even more worth it.