Senhora Mae: om nom nom’ing in Portugal

Trying to figure out where to eat in Lisbon there are a few things that keep popping up: Pastéis de Belém, pretty much anything ‘cheap Peri Peri’ (more on this later) and Senhora Mae.

Ranked no. 20 on Trip Advisor‘s best restaurants in Lisbon (out of 554), not budget breaking and located on the lovely hilly streets of the Alfama neighbourhood, I knew I had to try it.

Specialising in ‘modern’ Portuguese cuisines, Senhora Mae has had accolades across the board for their bold and innovative style. Oddly enough though, I couldn’t really see what was ‘Portuguese’ about the menu at all. It’s not a bad thing, just a bit of a misnomer.

Though the inside of the restaurant – with its exposed rock, beautiful oak tables and smart lighting – was beautiful, I couldn’t be tempted away from the Senhora’s rather modest patio with a view of the famous Tram 28 rumbling by every few minutes and the sound of Fava music lofting from the apartment next door. It was a good vibe.

I ordered a glass of wine and some bread with a lovely sun-dried tomato spread, but my eye was taken to the mains – odd combinations, that they were.

My immediate reaction was that the chef was pretty damn ambitious. The menu was rather large and there were a lot of different cuisine-types to boot (Duck burgers to Sweet and Sour Shrimp with Papadoms).  I was hoping it wouldn’t be disastrous (Jack of all trades, etc) and was eventually tempted by what sounded simple enough: Enrolado de Vitela c/ Amêndoa e Puré de Maçã – Rolled veal w/ almond and apple puree (14.00 €):

While it was not at all what I was expecting, somehow they pulled it off. Sure it was a bit pretentious; sure it was nearly a foot tall; and sure it had everything in it but the kitchen sink, but it worked.

The veal was sliced thin and tender, wrapped several times around a bit of spinach and mushrooms, housed in a crisp wonton and topped with a generous disc of goat’s cheese, a poached apple and caramelised figs. It should have been all wrong, but there was enough savoury to balance out the sweet. Naturally after finishing off the monster, I was stuffed. Dessert was absolutely not an option.

I’m guessing if my ‘simple’ rolled veal arrived GIANT, with everything but fireworks, the rest of the menu is the same – a recipe for disaster, surely. In fact, upon returning to London, I came across a 2/10 review from Cara at Ms Gourmet Chick for that very reason. So the only thing I can warn is: go to Senhora Mae with few expectations. You may leave happy, you may leave slightly confused, but no matter what, you will leave with a full stomach.

Largo de São Martinho 6
1149 Lisbon, Portugal
218 275 599

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